“I want to grow old like the people here!”

I sit waiting for my coffee. The atmosphere is the one you picture in your mind when reading East Asian literature. Calm, warm, with the scent of coffee and a tapestry of jazz music that pervades the space.

After three days of relentlessly walking, this is the right place to start Missives From East Asia.

I flip through the notes, trying to recollect memories. Even though it's only been three days, I feel I’m in Taipei for weeks. My mind is as full as my memory card. My body already feels worn out by the 22,000 steps a day and the harsh sun.

Yeah, the sun. Let’s pause it here for a second.

It’s harsh. It punches you in the face since the early hours and relentlessly strikes you till dusk.

They warned me, I have to admit it. Everyone told me August was the worst period to travel through East Asia. But hey, could it be worse than last year in Vietnam? Maybe it could.

If you were following the Missives From Vietnam, you already know how much I sweated there: a ton. Here, on the other hand, it’s even worse.

Continuing the parallel with Vietnam. This trip started in the same way, invited for beers by a group of strangers. It was a big family celebrating a birthday in Ho Chi Minh; here, it's a group of drunken friends. The only difference is that this time I had to decline, too tired after the long haul for a long night of beers.

But isn’t it amazing the doors photography can open? The camera is my easiest excuse to start a conversation. A portrait, a chitchat, and only fate knows where this will bring you.

The coffee arrives. And with the first taste of caffeine conquering the mouth, let’s go back to the opening sentence for a second.

Elderly people in this part of the world, damn, they are so active.

I start laughing my ass off out of the blue. A message from a very good friend breaks my train of thought. I cannot disclose the content to keep him safe from his wife, but imagine a small, cheeky moment from your best friend's life just interrupting your focus time.

So, elderly people, they live the real life. From sunrise till the sun's back to punching your face, they are in parks dancing, doing Tai Chi, exercising. They are definitely more active than I’ve been in my last weeks back home.

Showing up every day. Daily activities to foster a community. A ritual that fights isolation and loneliness that often pervades the later stages of life.

It’s not only the parks. But also the food that keeps people together here. Night markets are an institution here, like 7-Eleven (but this is a story for a future missive).

Night markets will probably be a silver lining throughout the whole trip because they encompass everything I enjoy: food and people.

A feast for my eyes and my belly.

I can taste the heritage of Chinese and Japanese occupation at every meal. An example? Xiao Long Bao, among my favorite dishes ever, are a pillar here but originally from Nanxiang, a suburb of Shanghai.

Speaking of which, it’s 12 a.m.: time to wrap up and go try the famous Xiao Long Bao at Din Tai Fung next door.

I hope you enjoyed this first issue of Missives From East Asia. If you are new here, know that you can always hit reply to this email and land in my inbox.

Till the next missive,

— M

PS. About the above Chinese occupation mention, let’s keep it simple and act as Taiwan is not under China right now. Officially, it’s part of the Republic of China, that technically is different than the People’s Republic of China.